BRUTALISM

SPRING/SUMMER 19

For eleven years now Boris Bidjan Saberi’s artisanal clothes and brutalist street culture has hit Paris making him part of the myriad of cutting-edge voices which form the fashion capital’s men’s scene. SS19 proposes a range of technical outerwear, jumpsuits and shirts inspired by Miners garments and brutalist architecture in beton. Details include, seam taped finishings, an experimental Microcoated treatment for leather, object dyed garments, nickle pressed treatments, and cold resin dyed whole garments; all presented in achromatic colors like concrete - Beton. Now, Saberi proposes a new level of comfort with his minimalist yet intense approach to engineered pattern making. He focused on the most basic of wardrobe staples, the T-shirt for this collection. Working with the T lines, elongating them and nearly making a dress. Often sliced open at the middle and with dangling fabric bands at the T. All this contributes to Saberi’s multi-layered silhouette. Benchmark for BBS is his fully reversible jackets showing the tailoring prowess of his ateliers in Barcelona. He also zeroed in on the Karate pant he used to wear as a kid with strong adjustable waist straps. The focus revolves around the one-piece construct; its variations are predominant in every garment proposed for this collection. Lightweight one-piece overalls, shirts and coats in jersey cotton, black and sterling light grey knits align together with unprecedented comfort and contemporary style. Also, this season, the collaboration with Salomon evolves, the recognized leader in creating innovative products with advance athletic performances developed with the BBS team an even wider range of footwear exclusively for the SS19 collection: running, light running, trail running, multifunction shoes with waterproof zippers and open heel clogs with mesh. Saberi remains both inside and outside the fashion world, generating complexity through his singular interpretations and more authentic alternatives of working-class standards and street culture that makes any individual interested in avant-garde movements. This collection encapsulates his view of design, contemporary fashion and brutalist architecture.

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