Autumn/Winter 17 ANCHORISM

Following on a SS17 collection set against a harsh climatic backdrop, Boris Bidjan Saberi again anchors his creativity in extreme environmental conditions. The radicalism of his experiments and the complex treatments to which he subjects his pieces appear here as the result of a very personal reinterpretation of the practice of extreme ice climbing. A practice, undertaken by the designer himself, that guides the aesthetic and functional development of the collection. A mineral palette appears in dark silhouettes composed of carefully researched clothing and accessories crafted with meticulous attention to detail. These pieces are distinctly tailored to respond to all the needs that may arise while ascending, traversed by mountaineering-like straps and harnesses that punctuate the anatomy of these climbers. Tone on tone or contrasting, the garments subtly utilize the selected materials. Through this play between opposing textures and a layered system of superimposition, we are reminded of the complex patterns and colors of a mountainous strata. Classics of the brand such as re-interpreted military trench coats, reversible parkas, and handcrafted drop-crotch pants meet hybrid vest-jackets and multi-use harnessed pants. These multifunctional garments reveal pragmatic elements: optional pockets, removable linings and adjustable straps and lengths. Hand-knit jumpers adorned with vertebral braids recall the graphic aesthetic of climbing knots. Down jackets, a first for the designer, are created using a new technology of aggregate goose down fabric. When layered over technical seamless jerseys, the winter wardrobe is complete. These new garments round out an innovative and technical collection, nonetheless crafted with the artisanal knowledge of the House. The experimental taste of Saberi finds itself in the development of very singular leathers. Vegetable tanned cow stomach and intestine skins constitute the raw material for gloves and raincoats. These unusual materials possess unexpected visual and tactile qualities, recalling in their own way the geometric surfaces of the climbing walls. The almost lithic finishes of the collection add nuance to the pieces. Sometimes waxed, sometimes mattified, these treatments strengthen the hold of the cottons, wools, leathers and other organic materials predominant this season. The designer, through detailed analysis, engages with every element implemented and constituting the climbing practice. This in depth research, highlighted by the silhouettes presented for AW17, is also reflected in the second collaboration with the mountain brand Salomon. Benefiting from a technicality unrivaled in the field, the collaboration includes four models of footwear, varying in function: One pair of mountaineering boots, made for the mainline, are constructed using leather and wool, and feature removable crampons. The three others, created for the additional line 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi, include one exclusive Speedcross 3, a pair of military boots, and a model seamingly more urban boots with a double fastening system.