Autumn/Winter 16 SQUADRON

Boris Bidjan Saberi's fall winter 16-17 collection leads the designer's influences to an in-depth tailoring analysis. In line with the brand's original exploration, the collection digs the high functionality of free fall commando's uniforms and equipment. Traditional parachute and sky diving gear are carved up to be translated into a pioneering wardrobe. As if the gravitational pull would have transformed this unit silhouettes, volumes exploration shakes up the contemporary menswear mold. Outlines draw a certain verticality which at first glance give a more minimal feel to the collection and hence reveals a strong focus on pattern and details. Saberi's known streetwear heritage is found through lining constructions and a retractable system which is a guideline for the whole collection. Some hidden shoulder side stripes, seemingly inspired by paratroopers’ safety harnesses, adorn tailored parkas and cloaks, suggesting lengths and layering's experimentation. A range of see-through organzas and technical fabrics reveals the garments skeleton and thermo-sealed seams which if appearing as ongoing processes underline meanwhile an extreme care for needle-crafts and a taste for new technology. Airy fabrics go hand in hand with Saberi's patented own-tanned skins. Horses, kangaroos and Bockones meet a yak skin, perfect backcloth for yet unseen modular waist-packs. Inside's coats made of merino wool fur, pony skin jackets and low crotch oversize pants strengthen the organic feel and emphasis given to the contrasted weight fabrics. An achromatic palette of dirty whites, greys and blacks underlines the designer's taste for experimental finishes. An extracting color process, gives to the gabardines which are cut into paratrooper overalls and carpenter jackets, a sky-like camouflage effect. A least expected treatment which complete the garment dyed one-off pieces, signature of the house. The skydivers’ silhouettes of Saberi's AW16 collection are highlighted by a set of handcrafted sunglasses, resulting of a close collaboration with jewelry makers of Werkstatt München. Very-own craftsmanship and knowledge joined to develop one off spectacle frames designed in a variation of two models shaped in sterling silver.