Spring/Summer 16 SUBSPHERE

For his Spring/Summer 2016 collection, the designer continues with a playful intelligence to pursue functionality within the context of his street wear influences, further defining the inspiration behind his signature aesthetic. Striking a subtle balance between tailoring and dressmaking, underlining a contemporary vision and artesanal know-how, the silhouettes of the season fuse two distinct worlds. Workwear transforms into deep sea diving suits. The fusion of the functional requirements of these two worlds reveal the true obsession of the designer: the study and understanding of the body and its movement which brings his creations from the visionary into the realm of the practical. The anatomical cuts which have been seen in his collections throughout the seasons and played a part in creating an utterly unique Saberian aesthetic, are redesigned inspired by neoprene suit construction. Here, far from the original intention to flatter the curves of the wearer, the play of seams act as a starting point for a new experiment in pattern making. Upon closer inspection, the cuts of these surprising silhouettes reveal a woven puzzle of textures that highlight an attention to detail beyond the ordinary. If human anatomy is at the core of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s tailoring, the materials themselves are analogously organic. Coated shirts appear wet, roughly textured cottons take hold of the wearer and vegetable tanned leathers complete the senses with their distinctive musk. Inner layers are given the same care, finished with experimental treatments and handmade details. These Saberian signatures draw attention to the functionality of the lighter weight jackets and vests with their retractable and removable linings for the Spring/Summer season. The interplay of fabric travels throughout strong and emblematic pieces; both earthly and aquatic, dungarees and overalls come in an unusually colorful range for the designer. A bold black, which Saberi uses repeatedly to underline the virtuosity of his cuts, mingles with nuclear and deep blues and variations of grey and off-white. Crafted in evocative colors, the silhouettes of these contemporary divers are complemented by accessories drawing from the same references ; protective armor bags, lace-up boots with gripping soles - inspired by antique diver shoes - functional gear that ensures safe passage for his hybrid army.