Autumn/Winter 15 HEIMAT

Entitled Heimat, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s newest collection echoes the designer’s native region ; allowing the viewer to interpret the collection as a translation of his Bavarian origins and as a creative maturation that speaks to an internal sense of place. The designer who has often ventured far in his exploration of monochromatic contrast, offers a colorful collection this season. An eye-catching palette of vermillion reds, icy grays, and charcoal blacks compliment the intensely detailed work on cuts and finishes. Citing military wardrobes as a boundless source of inspiration in creating the apparel of his urban soldiers, season after season, Boris Bidjan Saberi unveils a daring hybridization. Heimat gives a new perspective to this subtle functionality, merging traditional Bavarian suits with the layered silhouettes of highlanders. Removed from the context of its original use, the mountain wardrobe displays a renewed aesthetic that blends sophistication with ruggedness.Treated parkas, sutured leather jackets, and enveloping capes suggest a demanding environment where the focus of attire is on practicality and durability. Tailored in stiff cottons, the visual roughness of the blazers meets carmine balaclavas and protective oversized poplin shirts. While overalls and jumpsuits are anatomical in fit, lateral game bags dress up military waistcoats and the iconic lederhosen are translated through a deconstruction of contrasting materials. Vegetable tanned leathers, cashmeres, cottons, and linens take center stage, highlighting the care given to details and finishes. Oxidized iron ties, handmade topstitching and die-cut mountaineering soles emphasize the focus on artisanal work and hyper-functionality which remain the trademark of Boris Bidjan Saberi. Combining his streetwear influences with those of his native Bavaria, the designer challenges traditional menswear silhouettes by expressing a unique perspective of his origins. Heimat clearly displays Boris Bidjan Saberi’s strong hand and maturation. After the growth of his additional line, 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi and his recent inclusion as a member of the Federation Francaise de la Couture, the designer presents the brand’s first steps into the world of per- fumery. The launch of a collection of artisanal candles and fragrances will be followed by the debut perfume developed with Geza Schoen and inspired by Boris Bidjan Saberi’s emblematic vegetable tanned equine leather.